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Couturier Pushing African Brand Amid Dwindling Patronage

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Ben Sonia is a talented fashion and design entrepreneur, creative Director/Founder of ‘Shop Stab’, who discovered her gift while in the university. Aware that there were no clothes really fit for her size -4 body frame, she had no option than to learn to make clothes fit and proper for herself.

A 25 -year- old medical laboratory scientist, from Babcock University, who was in dilemma whether to choose a career in fashion and design, a craft her grandfather conscientiously taught and encouraged her to pursue, or not. Bred in Lagos, Sonia’s creative journey began with fashion illustrations in 2013. While pursuing a bachelor’s degree. She nurtured her passion for fashion and sharpened her skills in pattern drafting.

Today, Sonia’s ‘Shop Stab’, features modern silhouettes, subtle prints, and unexpected details that add a touch of edification to each design and collections she makes. With styles that blend modern cuts and African inspiration, emphasizing detail, fit and proper, the Fashion outfit collections basically lies in personalization, quality craftsmanship, and storytelling. Each piece painstakingly created to mirror the wearer’s essence and heritage.

Despite her science background, Sonia’s creative spirit and exceptional dressmaking skills stood her out among her contemporaries, firing her cylinder to leave a legacy in the fashion / lifestyle industry.

In a meet and greet gathering of fashion enthusiasts and creative fellows recently in Lagos, Sonia spoke about Shop Stab and what the brand represents in the fashion industry. “Shop Stab represents elegance, culture, and individuality. We focus on creating timeless pieces that capture different personalities with a contemporary twist especially for women who want to look elegant, graceful, and unique.

“I have been designing since June 2018. Since then, it has been a mixed experience. There were good days and bad days, but, in all it’s been good totally, it’s been very fulfilling. For the bad days, I sleep over It and re- strategize. If it’s something I can change, I would go back and re- strategize, but if it’s something I can’t change, like the bad economy of the country. I mean, there is nothing I can do”

Speaking on what inspired her, Sonia said, she is motivated by African prints. African heritage and uniqueness spurs her to enmesh herself into nativity. To add up, people around inspired her to keep pushing despite all odds. “People inspire me. Most of my clients inspire me, different things inspire me. I can be sleeping now and then I receive an idea, next thing, I sketch it out and something beautiful, I’m a creative person”

Sourcing raw materials is a challenge every producer faces due to cost, logistics, among other factors. For her, she said “I source materials majorly from Itoku in Abeokuta, Adire fabrics. So sometimes I buy from the traders. Sometimes I make them. And they have been working perfectly for me. Because maybe I’m just lucky to find a good vendor. I have someone that I produce clothes for, I produce for her brand, and most of the Adire that she brings to me, some of them are turned some of them are not good at all. So I think I’m just lucky to have someone good”

Businesses thrive on patronage, on this note, the young Laboratory Scientist bemoan that local patronage has posed a threat to the craft. First, it majorly affects pricing. “When they bring these clothes from abroad, majorly from like China, they are quite cheap. So when I price my goods, people are like, Oh, I can easily get it for this price in the market, because it’s from China and all that stuff, and then it’s actually a problem, because people do not want to, but when they do, they try to compare your work. Although we know that our fabrics are better. But they don’t know. Most people don’t know this. People that think they know do not really know this. So they believe that you are overcharging them, or you’re over- pricing. But of late, people have been really showing interest in Nigeria brands, I think it’s because of celebrity designers, and all those outfits they have been making for people, people have been really showing interest because, the Africa Magic Viewers’ Choice Awards (AMVC) that just happened, Americans were rating Nigerian made clothes. It was very interesting. I mean, they didn’t know what they were doing, but, it made a lot of sense to me. Just made me happy”

Still on home made and foreign materials comparison, she maintained that she works majorly with cotton fabrics, calling on Nigerians to patronize locally- made as designers strive to input African heritage into every pieces produced. “I believe that if anyone should put on what he or she can relate to or maybe what speaks to you, it makes sense”

Speaking on Nigerians habitual act of patronizing foreign products against local designers, the fashion enthusiast said it affects them in different ways. “first is visibility. If you go to the market now, you hardly see Nigeria- made clothes. You see majorly foreign made clothes. I have not been to Aba, but I heard it is like a production house. It’s a big place. They make beautiful things there. My grandfather used to make a lot of suits and shoes there in Aba, he was a bank manager in Italy. So, he used to make all these clothes here in Aba, then, he would move the clothes (suits and shoes) made in Aba to Italy. I believe that if only we can look into it and make sure that our own things matter, like, if we can produce our own designs, make them really good and standard. I mean, people would want to buy from us. Why are we mimicking other designs that are not even good? Simply because we see them bringing a brand from China, instead of making things that are quality, things that would put us on a map. So, I believe that in the coming years we will see the vision”

Of government’s role in promoting indigenous fashion entrepreneurs, the fashion designer did not support the ban of importing clothing materials as some indigenous micro and small scale entrepreneurs have advised the government over the years, but says “It will not make sense, because it also helps us do things. I have customers in Australia that use our own indigenous clothes (Ankara). I think they just feel our uniqueness. I don’t know, maybe they just want to relate with our culture. Or maybe they feel it’s beautiful. I think they like a combination of both our clothes and the way we design. They love the fabrics, they are not related with us in any way, but maybe they just want to feel like us”

Responding to the declining interest in fashion and designing profession by young people of late, the young entrepreneur advised oldsters in the industry should to show the younger generation the good side of the work. She recalled that not so many people had wanted to dabble into fashion and designing, because the craft was smeared at as a low grade work for never- do- well.

‘Not until recent years that people started seeing the joy, because everybody believes that once you are a tailor, you are poor – financially. Yes, they believe that there is nothing else you can do. Because it’s a meagre work in their own eyes. That is how they looked at it. But now that people are seeing clothes that you can make clothes and actually price, and people would buy it. People would appreciate what you are making then. I mean, I believe we need to show younger ones the business side of it, they need to see the good side of it, the designing, the business side. You know, there are other things, like fashion tech, and ‘Fashion Illustration’ – which is a good one too. So there are different aspects. It’s just to show them the beautiful side and the good side to it. That is basically it.

And to motivate young people to join this profession, she explained that prospective fashion designers must have the passion because fashion designing is not something one does because of money, else one would cry. “You do it because you like it. And then you have to be smart enough to get money from it. You have to be informed. I still hold classes for younger breeds. I buy courses because I’m always trying to know more of recent trends in the industry, just to upgrade. You have to show them both sides, even if you have the passion for it, you have to know the business side of it. We need to let them know that it’s not all about money only, but it’s about creating a world of appealing scenes, acceptance, of elegance, esthetics and impact through crafting and designing with fabrics”

How busy are fashionista, she confirmed that there are two sides every coin. In December for instance, people want new clothes because it’s a peak season, October to December. But in January, people do not really buy clothes, but for her, there is always clothes to design and sew, because no matter what, people always make and put on clothes. “It’s something that you wear every day. Though I do not make bespoke dresses at that highest level, I make majorly ‘ready to wear’ majorly so I don’t take jobs just from anybody, because I want to make my own designs.

Has fashion design contributed to national economy? She felt proud of where the sector have come, saying “at this point I believe we are now being recognized and appreciated, our local contents have really boost our sales and visibility, income and then in providing jobs. Because if you have people desiring your design and the clothes you made, you would need more staff. You need more help. At a point I had three workers(marketing manager. I have someone that handles my social media page), when people are engaged, it helps the state of the economy and less people will be hungry. I teach Junior WAEC students sewing for their practical exams. I make ‘Made To Order Clothes’ so, I produce for brands that have fashion brands that cannot sew”

She urged the federal government to fix the epileptic economy as SMEs are struggling to survive – owing to incessant power outage and other high cost of production and operations. She noted that If the country is bedeviled and handicapped by hostile economic environment, it dampens the effort of African designers.

“My survival strategy is, I buy in bulk so that in the next few months, I will not be crying, or I will not have any need to run up and down because you cannot increase the costs of your clothes every week, your customers would just think you aren’t serious, and then they don’t even really have enough to be doing that, because their money is been affected by the harsh economy, that is it. Other surviving strategy is based on the situation as the case maybe.

In respect to sustainability in business, she categorically said sustainability is something she takes to heart- personally. Because the business of fashion involves a lot of waste (pieces of materials) from fabrics, she revealed that she uses the waste fabrics or pieces to make local bags and use the bags as a take -away pack. “I don’t waste any piece of material/ fabrics here. I reuse them. I produce bags I used to send clothes to clients. So I make them when one places order”

In reaching out to global scene, fair- complexioned Sonia said she have tried to incorporate contemporary touches and fittings into what she does, just so that it can appeal to the international audience as well. “I have also partnered with Stock Brands and retailers, international retailers, one in the UK and one in South Africa(Ananda Africa) just so that, I can have more reach for my clothes, because I know that even with my Instagram ads, I know that I might not have the visibility that I need. So I have tried to reach out. I have also tried to partner with other people, like a magazine abroad in the UK, Klat Magazine, I did a partnership with them, I did a shoot, and they used it for one of their creative, upcoming designers, just so that I can push myself out there. So I’m pushing working with all international bodies- magazines and distributors. Another one is Kouture Paradise. The feedback has been great. We have a shoot for Koutour Paradise this soon. We have a shoot because one of my pieces I just came out, I mean, it went viral, just so that, they can push but, it’s been good. Feedback has been good. I joined them this year. It’s been going well. I mean, so far so good”

Working and collaborating with the entertainment industry is another step higher, given the relevance of connections with bigger brands. She added that when she released a new collection in 8 of April, she made effort to reach out to personalities in the entertainment industry. “We have sent messages for collaborations to Zainab Balogun, Zara Byrne, Yobe Helen, Amy okoli, Powede Adewujo and some other influencers. Although we have not really seen much feedback, but we are still pushing.

“I think creative industry is something we should look into seriously, especially with the recent buzz. You know, Nigerian designers are on the map, like they are putting themselves on the map right now. So I think the government should really take advantage of it. They should really look into it and push it. We should try to get something from it. We should try to encourage others to boost our impact just to encourage us to grow.

“Sadly, I have not received any support from my representative in government. I’m in Nigeria. Most of everything I have here is self -funded. So government should do better by supporting youngsters like us who are in truth and sincerity striving to be responsible, accountable and productive economically in the society. Many young people are looking for real time support from the government and other well meaning Nigerians. The major challenge we have are the middle men through whom the young business creators ought to receive considerable support in real time from the government”

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